waves

When waves approach shore and "feel the bottom", water piles up and breakers form. This process proves that a shoreline is not static. Primarily these waves, breaking at an angle to the shoreline, are what generate a long shore current that parallels the shore. The long shore current not only moves water in the surf zone, it also moves sediment parallel to the shoreline. Long shore current is a function of the angle of wave …

…back and forth with shifts in wave direction. In spite of this, along any particular shoreline one direction for incoming waves usually dominates resulting in a preferential net movement of sediment. Sand and water work together consistently on the shore. Many years of this procedure of waves movement will result in one side with more sand than the other. The side with less sand, in conclusion, will be replaced with sand poured in by humans