Malibu.

Every summer since I moved from California to Ohio I've gone back to California to surf and visit my family. This summer wasn't any different I left in early in August for a 3-week vacation. When I arrived at LAX airport I was picked up by my brother and drove to his house, which is 15 minutes away. As soon as I arrived at his house I showered, than started the 2-hour drive through traffic to …

…my board and helped me back to the car. The next day the waves were huge even bigger than the night before. I surfed all day at Little Dume and I surfed Malibu point again that night. I had almost drowned the night before. I hoped never to be in the position I was that night again, but in order to experience the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.